Fragrance of the day is Guerlain’s Classic Vetiver, 2006 batch with formulation that was still a little heavy on the tobacco before they flipped to the more “greenish” fresh formulation fluid seen in later batches.
LOVE this version, and though nothing like the older 1970s or 80s versions, it still has that dark, very masculine tone that makes you think of The Duke, John Wayne, young Buff Arnold Schwartzenegger, Leader of men, John F. Keneddy. The scent is a throwback to a time when men were not afraid to be men.
I heard that with the new “wood” caps they went back a little towards the old Tobacco heavy formulation, kind of meeting halfway between Fresh and Masculine. I’ll need to get one of the new bottles to try. This one, I have been using very sparingly since I knew it wasn’t replaceable.
And oh yeah, was a damn fine shave. 2nd use on the Dorco Blade, and it performed well enough in the Ascension. I’d say its mid high on the sharpness scale, along with Astra / Personnas / Sharks. Had to do a little additional clean-up passes around my usual problem areas but got my Perfect Glass “I keep touching myself” BBS shave.
Bowl : Van Yulay Resin
Brush : Friendship Shaving’s Macy Dual Band Manchurian Badger by Frank Shaving
Starting day two of Fragrance week with Royal Oudh by Van Yulay. I don’t think I’ll have to say much about Monica’s Royal Oudh here as it is a good representation of Creed’s Royal Oud.
Going with the oud vibe for today, I am using my own blend that I had a local perfumer put together and I remixed into a spray bottle I have at home. The notes are : Oud, Sandalwood, Nutmeg, Peppers, Cinnamon, Amber, Blood Orange, Saffron, Elemi, Cedar, Angelica, Saffran
The Oud is Indonesian Oud, (if you have never smelt “real oud” before its blended, its very strong, heady, resinous and not exactly very pleasant) which smells very animalistic, so I had to temper it with spices, sandalwood and cedar, toning it down some, allowing the blend to bring out that beautiful oud scent while removing that sharp edge that oud has. Then adding saffron, blood orange (wanted a little cardamom, grapefruit and rum too, but they didn’t have any oils for those) Elemi, Angelica, Amber and Saffran to sweeten and “green” the the scent a little and the end result is … Fanfuckingtastic!
“Saffran” its a saffron-floral based scent oil (I was told it was for the ladies), I don’t know which flower they used to be exact, they just called it “saffran” and is sold as attars by Arabic scent houses, smells like sweet honeyed frangipani and jasmine with a hint of vetiver and saffron.
I might add a little rose or frangipani the next time I want to make something like this again just to give it a little more florals to temper it some more. And I kinda wished the perfumer had all the oils I wanted especially cardamom and rum, would have made this blend epically awesome!
As is, this is a very “male” old school Arabian-Eastern scent. Very Masculine, perhaps a little too much so. A little more florals might take that scent imagery down a notch, from a hulking King Conan of Atlantis, to maybe something a little more gentil perhaps. (look to your local scent Artisan to see if they can make this)
This is a parfum strength concoction. I have test used it prior and it last for hours. Initial projection and sillage is as you would expect, a little nuts. 2-3hrs minimum with good projection and sillage, then it becomes a personal bubble scent and sillage for about 4-6 hours, and finally a skin scent for another 3 or so hours for almost 8-12 hours longevity. You do not want to wear this during summer (or if you do, just dab a little to the neck, pulse areas) or outside of any air conditioned areas. Also. if you apply too much of this at once, I am certain your co-workers will kick you out of the office for causing the entire area to smell of nothing but oud-spice.
Bowl : Van Yulay Resin
Brush : Friendship Shaving’s Macy Dual Band Manchurian by Frank Shaving
Love Zingari Man’s new base. Extremely easy to lather up, extremely slick with fantastic residual slickness and post shave feel. Scent is light as with most Zingari Man’s soaps and doesn’t interfere with whatever scent you may choose to wear for the day. I chose Bvlgari Aqva Atlantiqve for today, keeping to the sea theme and being an Aqva, the scent of the sea is strong in this one.
Phoenix Artisan Accouterments’s Ascension VS Tatara Masamune
If you noticed I didn’t say, Copper Ascension as lets be fair, the copper version is the “bling” version and you can buy the regular Stainless Steel or the Aluminum for much less, $79.95 and $49.95 respectively, and compare that to the Masamune’s $165.00.
This is a “After the Honeymoon” period report having used the Masamune with a rather large variety of blades and after at least 20 shaves, some of which I have not posted up.
As fantastic as the shaves that the Masamune gave, it has a flaw. It requires you to use very sharp blades such as the Feather, BiC or Zaza to perform at peak. If the blade dulls or if you are using a “lesser” blade your shave experience might not as as picture perfect.
For example, using Treet’s Carbon Steel Blades (Black Beauties) will not give you the best shaving results even though its probably the smoothest shave you have ever had. This is probably because what makes the shave feel so smooth, worked against the shave with a blade that isn’t the sharpest one on the block.
You’ll have to go over trouble spots a few times to clean them out of micro stubble. Not saying that you didn’t get a great shave, it’s probably “BBS” standard for some, but post shave and you feel around and find that one or two follicle that says “Nope, NOT Glass BBS”, is annoying.
This might be fixed with replacing the Masamune’s Top cap with the Nodachi (another 50€ / $55+/-) Top cap to bring the blade exposure on the Masamune plate to a true neutral of 0.00mm But that makes this Razor a 199€ razor. You decide if it’s worth it.
I might get just get a Tatara Masamune Nodachi and swap top caps to get two razors one with a 0.53mm blade gap and 0.00m blade exposure and the other with a 0.93mm blade gap with a -0.03mm blade exposure. But that’s a maybe, and an investment that I’ll make only if I really have the extra cash to play with.
Steps in PAA’s Ascension. It is also one of the smoothest razors I have used. Now given, I have the Copper Ascension and its a damn good looking work of art, but those scary looking teeth are really there to channel lather and help the razor glide over your skin. It is also an adjustable razor. Like the Masamune, its “starting” blade gap is 0.50mm (Masamune is 0.53) but with a slight twist, releasing tension on the top plate slightly, you can increase that gap quite significantly (it’s all in micro mm after all) while still have a functioning razor to shave with. The Blade exposure for the Ascension is 0.00mm if I am not mistaken.
The functional difference is that with the Ascension, even with a blade like Treet’s Black Beauty, I got a true Glass BBS with less strokes of the razor and while it may not feel as smooth as the Masamune, its still damn fracking smooth.
My recommendation is to buy the Ascension. At $49.95, for the aluminum version, this would be my choice if I am on a budget but want a fantastic razor to work with. Get Copper version if you want the”Bling”, and even so, its “only” $99.95. “Only”, heh.
Bowl : Van Yulay Resin
Brush : Friendship Shaving’s Macy G4 Synthetic by Frank Shaving
Pre-Shave : Shower
Soap : Zingari Man’s Seafarer
Razor PAA’s Copper Ascension w/Treet Black Beauty Blade
Post Shave : Nivea Man Deep Aftershave splash, Zingari Man’s Seafarer Aftershave Balm
This “Forgotten” has a rather unique scent. Citrus, Mint, vetiver and a touch of birch I think. Vetiver being dominant.
Its a polarising scent and one that you can have different feelings about depending on your mood and when you use it. I kind of stopped using this for my day shaves and after I have got several of Soap Commander’s offerings, retired it from my night shaves as well. I think this one works best for my off days (few are far in between 🤣) which was why its been sitting mostly unused for a while now.
Bowl : PAA’s Travel Scuttle
Brush : Oumo SHD Badger Silvertips
Pre-Shave : Shower
Soap : Razorock’s Alchemy
Razor : Tatara Masamune w/Bic (3)
Post Shave : Razorock’s Alchemy Aftershave Splash, Prep
This one, is one of my sadder “forgotten” purchases. I think it was a test purchase from a vendor that that I had respect for but kinda lost that respect when a simple question was returned with a snide remark. Might be his off day, but okies, whatever. Never bought the companion aftershave or from the vendor after, and I haven’t been using it as much as I should.
Substituting Wet The Face’s aftershave for this shave, as we know that Fine’s Fresh Vetiver is a take on Tom Ford’s Grey Vetiver.
So, which is better? For the moment and based on what I have, a toss up, Fine’s version is not as close to the actual scent as Wet The Face’s version is and I actually prefer WTF’s version however the version I bought (Tallow Puck) was quite a bit weak on the scent, which I know that Don has since addressed and I’ll be getting the new “improved scent” version once I grind my current Grey Vetiver down a little. (I use WTF’s Grey Vetiver often enough for my regular evening shaves, without the AS, the AS I use for day shaves)
Had the day off due to a medical thing, so actually have the full evening with the wife. So, yeah, Aftershave and EDP time!
Brush : Friendship Shaving’s Macy G4 Synthetic by Frank Shaving (face lathered)
3rd time round using the soap and there are a few thoughts on this one.
Also as per the soap’s page description, scent profile is described as : Eastern Caramel, Smoke and Firewood Blended with main notes of eastern spice mix , blended with smoke and firewood.
So I am not sure if mine is the final version, still, for my original impression of the soap’s scent please read it here :
Now a word on the soap itself. The soap is tallow based but, be aware that Van Yulay soaps can differ in base types as well as behave slightly differently. This is such a case. For those of you who are used to Monica’s soap being a little thirsty, you’ll want to go easy on the water with this one. it doesn’t take much to get the soap into the pre-lather paste stage depending on how much you load onto your brush. From my estimate the usual 10-12 swirls with a damp brush to load your brush bristles will load enough soap to generate enough lather for 5-6 full passes give or take.
This soap however doesn’t need nor should it have too much water or it’ll “look good” but looses quite a bit of its residual slickness and post shave feel.
You’ll want to go from Pre-lather paste, adding a little water at a time to to the point when you get slightly loose but still a little thick yogurt or thick cream that still have a bit of body. I found that consistency to give the best performance with slickness, fantastic residual slickness and face feeling great post shave.
Khaleesi (assuming there isn’t any change in the final product) Judging a scent based on a soap can be hard. Scents can play out very differently once you incorporate it into a soap or sometimes go in different directions then what you intended.
Third time shaving with the soap and I can definitely say that the scent of this one is an evolving one while you shave. From creating the lather, to applying it on your face, to wash off, the scent of the soap changes, evolves and gives an experience that I found to be very enjoyable.
The scent sample though is similar but on your skin it goes a slightly different direction. Assuming this will be the experience you get with the aftershave / balm / cologne the scent like the soap opens with smoke and florals but settles down to a more perfumery scent. Rose, Amber, Jasmine, (rose, amber and jasmine being dominant) Tonka, Vanilla, leather and smoke scent. While floral centric, a perhaps leaning a little more feminine, the leather, tonka and smoke gave the florals a darker tone. You will definitely smell Rose, Jasmine and amber throughout the day. I can see myself wearing this as a day scent.
Bowl : Van Yulay Resin
Brush : Friendship Shaving’s Macy G4 Synthetic by Frank Shavings
Pre-Shave : Shower
Soap : Khaleesi (sample)
Razor : Tatara Masamunue w/Zaza Blade (2)
Post Shave : Thayers Witch Hazel Lavender
Others : Van Yulay’s Khaleesi scent profile sample
Another one of my early purchases that fell to the way side. Cream itself is not bad, Good lather body, decent slickness, some residual slickness, minor post shave feel (face may feel dry stretched, balm kinds of fixes that but…) Where it disappoints is the finishing. A little better post shave feel, skin not feeling stretched / dry, would have made a world of difference and the balm kinds of rehydrate the skin but the immediate feel of putting it on is tacky skin until its fully absorbed. If it felt more like PAA’s Star Jelly I think I would have used this bundle more.
Van Yulay’s Shiver Me Timbers
Okies, I make no secret that I am a Booze, woods and spice man. Love them boozy notes, Woods and Spice, and this one is my favorite so far!
I smell Rum! And not just a smattering of it, nice heavy dark rum. Smoke or birch quite a bit too melding into the rum giving it that already dark rum a tangy scent, like its aged in an old oak cask. Also, there’s quite a bit of spice, a little nutmeg, cinamon, maybe anise, and orange peels? Bay leaf maybe? Then there’s Oud. Oud though smells somewhat tempered, can’t tell if it is paired with another wood, cedar or oak, maybe, definitely birch as I can make out that smoky scent, burnt birch or birch tar.
But you got me with the spiced rum. Frack me, but I want this one. Well if there just a bit more booze, more spice would be perfect! Definitely moved to the top 5 of my “To Buy List”
I wish I can buy everything on that list though (I think I have a list of 30+ soaps haha). Christmas is coming. Family of PC gamers. Yeah.
Bowl : Van Yulay Resin
Brush : Friendship Shaving’s Macy Dual Band Manchurian Badger by Frank Shaving
Pre-shave : Shower
Soap : Bluebeard’s Revenge Shaving Cream
Razor : Tatara Masamune w/Feather Blade (2)
Post Shave : Thayers Witch Hazel Lemon, Bluebeard’s Revenge Post shave Balm (more like gel)
Others : Van Yulay’s Shiver Me Timbers scent profile sample
Another of my older forgottens, other then my Proraso Green, it was the most used before stepping aside for artisanal soaps. Still good though, Proraso are by no means bad soaps they are a great gateway drug into the artisan soap rabbit hole. 😁
Shaving in the Rain. Scent profile as per site : Rain, White Musk, Tobacco, Vanilla, Bamboo, Leather, Ozone Rain, Grapefruit, Tonka Bean
Opens with white musk, grapefruit, ozone and bamboo. As the scent settles, grapefruit, leather, a light floral, maybe iris and vanilla comes to the fore sitting on a light tonka and tobacco base. This is primarily white musk, bamboo, grapefruit and ozone scent, with the floral and light vanilla hovering in the background. If you a musk person, this would be something you’d want to get. I’d tag this as a fresh musk scent.
Bowl : Van Yulay Resin
Brush : Friendship Shaving’s Macy G4 Synthetic by Frank Shaving
Pre-Shave : Shower
Soap : Proraso Blue (Aloe and Vitamin E)
Razor : Tatara Masamune w/Lord Platinum
Post Shave : Thayers Witch Hazel Lemon, Proraso Blue (Aloe and Vitamin E)
Others : Van Yulay’s Shaving in the Rain scent profile sample.
TLDR : Re-evaluating the Masamune’s Shave value upwards. Paired with a good blade gives perfect no irritation BBS shaves, twice (2 x) a day, for more then several days in a row. Do that with your regular razor.
Van Yulay’s Everything Shaving Scent Profile Impression : Going on my MUST BUY full set list.
Rushed to get home early today as I had plans for today’s shave. Shave started at 1545hrs:
Been a while since I used this, another “forgotten” and set aside bundle, giving way to my Primary Harem of soaps. I had forgotten how easily this soap lathers and loaded the brush with a little too much soap. The G4 and the monster lather maker that is the Van Yulay Resin bowl, made more than enough for at least 6-9 passes.
The Masamune with a Lord Platinum blade took every whisker off with ridiculous smooth ease. True Glass Smooth BBS shave. The kind that you keep touching yourself because you can’t believe how smooth your face is.
Alum application had zero feedback indicating zero irritation. Combination of soap, razor and blade gave that perfect shave that is fast becoming a regular occurrence since I got the Masamune. If this keep going on, I might have to re-evaluate my initial impression that the Razor is not giving a 150€ shave value.
The caveat is that you need to pair a good sharp blade with it, and if its one of the smooth ones, even better. Chasing perfect glass BBS twice a day without getting irritation while using my “forgotten” soaps (not my better stuff) is not “normal”.
Van Yulay’s “Everything Shaving”
Scent profile as per product page : Bergamont, Grapefruit, Tangerine, Sandalwood to Cedarwood, from Patchouli to Vetyver , Coffee, Cacao, Pink Pepper, Cognac, Wood Smoke, Lavender, Asian Plum and Tonka Bean.
OH HOLY CRAP! Opens with Bergamont, Grapefruit, Plum, Patchouli, pink pepper, a medley of florals (smells like there’s Jasmine, Lavender and something else, rose? I can’t tell) and cognac. The cognac especially gave that opening a very nice boozy umph, which is followed by a light touch of smoke (light birch) The smoke melds well into the mids. I swear I think there’s amber here. Either its the Cognac melding and creating notes, or there’s a bit of light sweet amber too and I swear, there is a light touch of Vanilla as well.
Mids are still citrusy, with Tangerine-Plum taking control over the grapefruit, sandalwood and cedar forms the backbone here but the woods chord is light. Cognac, plum and tonka notes starts to push to the to fore to bolster that Sweet (amber?) Tangerine note.
Mids were still going strong at 1730hrs. Not detecting coffee or cacao yet or if its there, its being run roughshod by the citrus / tonka / boozy plum notes or is blended in so well, a better nose than mine is needed. Vetyver is light and I think I missed it early due to the strong citrus and boozy blast. In case I wasn’t clear, I LOVE that Boozy Sweet citrus plum-tangerine medley of notes.
Cognac note starts the blend in around 1800hrs. It’s still detectable, but more in the background. Cedar is coming towards to the fore. Surprisingly, Amberish-Tangerine-Plum is still holding strong into the dry down or at least I think its the dry down. I think I am starting to detect a little of the coffee / cacao now but I am not even sure if its the dry down. The amber-tangerine-cognac-florals medley is still going strong. Still think that there’s a little Vanilla in here.
Posting this now at 1830hrs and will update if the scent profile changes drastically. All in all, I LOVE this scent.
Its like you took inspiration from “Danse Sauvage” by Chris Collins. Not quite, most notably missing oud, cardamom, nutmeg and chilli. But, the scent you came up with is still very sexy, very sensual.
FYI, I generally don’t go for Celebrity scents as many of them are “meh” but this one, Mmmmmnnnnnhhhhh!!
(As with everything Shaving, YMMV)
Bowl : Van Yulay Resin
Brush : Friendship Shaving’s Macy Dual Band Manchurian Badger by Frank Shaving
Soap : Oaken Labs Far Afield
Razor : Tatara Masamune w/Lord Platinum Blade
Post shave : Oaken Labs Far Afield Aftershave Splash, Prep
Others : Van Yulay’s “Everything Shaving” scent profile sample
Steve's Wet Shaving in Singapore 